Agha Designs Custom Jewelry

How Was That Made?

The design called for manufacture in 22K gold to match an existing chain belonging to the client’s spouse. Since it was an anniversary gift, a heart was chosen on consultation with the client as the "theme" with a diamond to "set off" the design. The client picked the diamond, and the process began. What follows, is how it’s done…

(Click on the thumbnail pictures to see the full size image.)

22K gold grain is melted and poured into a mold in the shape of a rod, which is then drawn into a rod about 6mm in diameter.

The gold rod is then annealed (softened) on a fire brick or pumice surface so that it can be shaped without exceeding its stress limits.

Since the design concept called for unusual flowing shapes, an offset triangular shape was chosen for the cross section. A steel forging plate is designed and milled to this cross section.

Detail of the final polishing after the milling operation.

The gold rod is then forged (beaten into shape – with several annealing steps) into the offset triangular shape. The rod, now triangular in cross section, is shown laying in the groove in the steel forging plate.

The rod is cut into two pieces and shaped into the two halves of the design. To add movement and flow to the shape, one half is curved with the apex of the triangular cross section "up" (right hand piece) and the other with the apex "down" (left hand piece). The two pieces are then filed and shaped to conform to the design.

The two pieces are soldered together, filed and shaped even further, and then polished.

A small "tab" is soldered to the inside curve on the left-hand side. This will hold the diamond.

The hole is drilled in the tab to accept the "head" that holds the diamond. The diamond is shown to the right, already mounted in a platinum head to emphasize its color and clarity. The unusual shaped metal on the left hand side is what will become the "bail." This is the part that the chain threads through. It attaches to the small ring soldered to the top of the heart.

The finished piece! After a final polish the pendant is ready for the customer. Note that the bail is also in the shape of a heart – a small touch to accent the individuality of the piece.

Detail. This is a custom designed piece. It is not, however, a part of our "One-of-a-Kind" or "Limited Edition Collections." If you are interested in a similar piece, contact us , and tell us what you want.